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NYFW Fall 2012: Z Spoke By Zac Posen, 10 Crosby Derek Lam, Steven Alan

The Ology Team .
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And we’re off!

Though Day 1 of NYFW’s runway shows unofficially kicked off today, one can’t omit a new Zac Posen presentation from a stylish roundup. Yesterday saw the arrival of Posen’s sixth ‘affordable’ range of garments, which as a whole, is described by the American designer as “Americana gone to the dark side.” An underwhelming source of inspiration if you ask me which probably explains why the collection was a little off-game itself. Yes, silk pants are sleek and yes, form-fitting bodices create alluring silhouettes, but an unoriginal color palette, that relies far too heavily on typical Fall tones (think blacks, maroons, chocolates and the like), as well as ho-hum pussy bows and wide-leg pants, don’t exactly surprise. Stronger pieces include the sweater with slashy cut-outs plus a range of accessories which include matte leather satchels and fox fur clutches. But Z Spoke lacks the oomph factor Zac’s red-carpet ready mainline tirelessly packs.


On the other hand, Derek Lam’s 10 Crosby range is screaming with energy and youth. Lam knows his market and he continues to push the envelope just enough into quirksville to stay a cut ahead of his peers. Selecting It model Hanne Gaby Odiele to model the range for his look book, can never hurt either. Lam layers fox fur vests over denim shirts and wool-knit dresses with pleats; it’s casual, effortlessly thrown-together and totally rocking. To add further sweetness, 70s tartan can be matched with oversized turtleneck, sleeveless sweaters as well as baseball-style printed tees.

Steven Alan delivers a collection of masculine, made-to-look-worn-in shirts, jersey dresses, textured waistcoats, heavy skirts and slacks. Reminiscent of the 30s-depression era, the range really failed to bring much joy to be honest but several of the muted-toned pieces (besides some random lipstick red) would look stellar paired with pops of fluorescent if it came to blending the collection with one’s wardrobe. Tartans, spots and stripes dominate while a stand-out long-sleeved mini, emblazoned with a rainbow floral print, injects much-needed enthusiasm.


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Comments (1)

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September 11, 2012