This past year alone, dozens of international mastheads have been jolted by a shuffling of higher-ups while the top Dior slot that Galliano left vacant nearly a year ago has been left untouched — until today. Though we've been through laundry lists of very real possibilities including offers to Marc Jacobs, Nicolas Ghesquiere, Riccardo Tisci and Phoebe Philo, WWD is reporting that Belgian designer Raf Simons, currently Jil Sander's top design man, will be taking the helm at the French fashion house as soon as the two parties close in on a final contract.
I couldn't be more thrilled by the news — after all, Simons turned Sander from an exclusively elegant, minimalist label into a widely desirable line of fresh tapestries (Spring 2012), bold colors (every other showing) and timeless sophistication with a heavy cult following while still maintaining a traditional aesthetic. But there are a few intrinsic problems with Simons' new appointment. First, Simons has lead Jil Sander since 2005 and he recently extended his contract at the Milan fashion house, which was a huge piece of conclusive news when rumors of him ousting Stefano Pilati from the creative director slot at Yves Saint Laurent were still afloat. Does this mean Bill Gaytten, who endlessly disappointed throughout his tenure as interim creative director, will hold onto the reigns until Simons' contract with Sander is up? And could Dior hold onto their customers until then? Far be it from possible for Simons to show his inaugural collection for Dior for Fall 2012, let alone conjure up an entire couture offering in less than a month, so that's out.
Second, though it's clear Simons has a creative vision that extends far beyond conservative, refined tailoring, is it possible for him, as the next couturier for Dior, to dream up the romantic theatricalities that Galliano was capable of? Galliano's ultra-feminine runway show extravaganzas were a consistent highlight of the Fashion Week calendars, and while I don't doubt Simons' ability to create beautiful clothing in the least, I can't say the same about his level of showmanship.
Lastly, the pressure to perform already forced Galliano, like designers ahead of him, into a frantic state of temporary drug-induced insanity, to put it nicely. Now what with all the criticism from industry greats like Carine Roitfeld and Karl Lagerfeld (both of whom actively petitioned for LVMH to hire Galliano back) along with that small fact that Simons was Dior's fifth choice, the lack of obvious support could be palpable. Simons seems cool headed enough, but with the added weight of a much-anticipated couture collection along with the invariable scrutiny could be a recipe for defeat. Still, we'll all have to wait to see how Simons' tenure will play out.
Do you have your doubts about Simons' ability to revitalize Dior?
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